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(A zip tool is the key

Slide the zip tool along the bottom edge to release the vinyl siding from the piece below it.

Vinyl siding is tough, but not indestructible. If a falling branch or a well-hit baseball has cracked a piece of your siding, you can make it as good as new in about 15 minutes with a $5 zip tool (available at any home center) and a replacement piece. It's as simple as unzipping the damaged piece and snapping in a new one.

Starting at one end of the damaged piece, push the end of the zip tool up under the siding until you feel it hook the bottom lip (Photo 1). Pull the zip tool downward and out to unhook the bottom lip, then slide it along the edge, pulling the siding out as you go. Then unzip any pieces above the damaged piece. Hold them out of the way with your elbow while you pry out the nails that hold the damaged piece in place (Photo 2).

Slide the replacement piece up into place, pushing up until the lower lip locks into the piece below it. Drive 1-1/4-in. roofing nails through the nailing flange. Space them about every 16 in. (near the old nail holes). Nail in the center of the nailing slot and leave about 1/32 in. of space between the nail head and the siding so the vinyl can move freely. Don't nail the heads tightly or the siding will buckle when it warms up.

With the new piece nailed, use the zip tool to lock the upper piece down over it. Start at one end and pull the lip down, twisting the tool slightly to force the leading edge down . Slide the zip tool along, pushing in on the vinyl just behind the tool with your other hand so it snaps into place.

It's best to repair vinyl in warm weather. In temperatures below freezing it becomes less flexible and may crack.

The downside of replacing older vinyl siding is that it can be hard to match the style and color, and siding rarely has any identifying marks. The best way to get a replacement piece is to take the broken piece to vinyl siding distributors in your area and find the closest match. If the old vinyl has faded or you can't find the right color, take the broken piece to a paint store and have the color matched. Paint the replacement piece with one coat of top-quality acrylic primer followed by acrylic house paint—acrylic paint will flex with the movement of the vinyl..) 

Plainfield Siding Repair is family-owned and operated right here in Plainfield, IL. Since our company opened its doors in 2006, we’ve treated every customer like they were a part of our family. Other companies may offer similar services, but our services are the best, and come with a personal touch.  
Has some of your siding begun to rot while the rest is still good? Don't replace all the boards.
 Follow these easy steps and just replace the boards that are rotted.

How to Replace Siding
Evaluate the boards
Decide which boards need replacing and where to make your cuts. Stagger butt joints if you’re replacing multiple courses. Use a square to mark the cutting lines, centered on a stud. The nailheads on existing siding will indicate stud positions.

When hardboard siding is installed and maintained correctly, it can hold up for 30 or 40 years. But without proper attention, isolated areas can begin rotting in only a few years, especially near the foundation. Water splashes up from the ground, frequently soaking the vulnerable bottom edges. The paper face then flakes off, exposing the dark brown inner layers, and each soaking accelerates the rotting.

Replacing these rotted areas takes only a few basic tools and a few materials, but it can make a huge improvement in your home’s appearance. Hardboard siding doesn’t cost that much, so it’s often worth it to replace an entire course. Doing this helps you avoid unnecessary butt joints.

Make your repair last
Prime the back and edges of the new siding. Thoroughly paint all exposed edges and grooves.
Do not drive the nails flush or countersink them. The heads will break the paper face, allowing water to soak in and deteriorate the siding. Caulk any nailheads that break the paper face.
Leave a 1/8-in. gap at corner and butt joints. Seal these joints with a 35-year, paintable acrylic latex caulk.
Prevent water from splashing on the siding by installing gutters or repairing leaky ones. Also, adjust lawn sprinklers so they don’t hit the siding.
Where siding meets a roof, it will rot if the siding touches the shingles. When you replace these boards, make sure you have good flashing along the joint. Install the new siding so there’s a 1-in. gap between siding and shingles.
Consider replacing rotted areas with fiber-cement siding. It’s 1/8 in. thinner than most hardboard, but it works in many cases, has a comparable cost, is highly rot resistant, and carries a 50-year warranty

Vinyl siding repair is tough, but not indestructible. If a falling branch or a well-hit baseball has cracked a piece of your siding, you can make it as good as new in about 15 minutes with a $5 zip tool (available at any home center) and a replacement piece. It’s as simple as unzipping the damaged piece and snapping in a new one.

Starting at one end of the damaged piece, push the end of the zip tool up under the siding until you feel it hook the bottom lip (Photo 1). Pull the zip tool downward and out to unhook the bottom lip, then slide it along the edge, pulling the siding out as you go. Then unzip any pieces above the damaged piece. Hold them out of the way with your elbow while you pry out the nails that hold the damaged piece in place .

Slide the replacement piece up into place, pushing up until the lower lip locks into the piece below it. Drive 1-1/4-in. roofing nails through the nailing flange. Space them about every 16 in. (near the old nail holes). Nail in the center of the nailing slot and leave about 1/32 in. of space between the nail head and the siding so the vinyl can move freely. Don’t nail the heads tightly or the siding will buckle when it warms up.

With the new piece nailed, use the zip tool to lock the upper piece down over it. Start at one end and pull the lip down, twisting the tool slightly to force the leading edge down . Slide the zip tool along, pushing in on the vinyl just behind the tool with your other hand so it snaps into place.

It’s best to repair vinyl in warm weather. In temperatures below freezing it becomes less flexible and may crack.

The downside of replacing older vinyl siding is that it can be hard to match the style and color, and siding rarely has any identifying marks. The best way to get a replacement piece is to take the broken piece to vinyl siding distributors in your area and find the closest match. If the old vinyl has faded or you can’t find the right color, take the broken piece to a paint store and have the color matched. Paint the replacement piece with one coat of top-quality acrylic primer followed by acrylic house paint—acrylic paint will flex with the movement of the vinyl.
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